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resto-mod 55 Tee-bird project

This is a discussion on resto-mod 55 Tee-bird project within the Early Birds [1955-1957] forums, part of the Thunderbird Model Years category; ok...i am 'doing over' my engine compartment now and i see exactly what you are talking about, i think.....i have ...

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  #16 (permalink)   IP: 64.179.201.128
Old 11-28-2016, 07:30 AM
 
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ok...i am 'doing over' my engine compartment now and i see exactly what you are talking about, i think.....i have a white car, but now the snowshoe white, my white has yellow tint in. it is a one year only '57 color... from the factory, and when i got the car, it had no engine, trans,glass ,interior,wiring, ect... was living 70 miles away from where i got it..i already had a bird with all that was missing, so it was a'swap' (because the frame was tweaked so bad on my car, the bill from the frame shop would have been enormous)... and the guy that sold me the 'bad' car in '71, (it's now 2002) always wanted it back..so now in 2002 had the cash to finally 'fix' a bird 'right'...i called him and said..'you want this car back? let's deal'...he said..fine. i want it AND i just got back from az. with a unhit, unrusted, never wrecked car...and i will swap you for it....so let me 'gut it out' and we will just swap 'bodies'...i said ok..(he said $7500 for his and he will give me $5000 back for the bad frame one...ok..so i said 'as it's still there (in much. - i live in toledo,ohio) can you take it to a GOOD local body shop and just get the eng. compartment done? yes. he says.. he does..and we swap...then, down thru the tears, the paint in the eng. compartment keeps 'flaking off' and like that,, like air was under it or it did not 'stick' well..it's not sticking to the primer--but i have 2 primers here...the first is brown--that is all right..THEN, THERE IS A BLACK (PRIMER??) OVER THE BROWN PRIMER.. it looks original to the car...this was my problem--PAINT WILL JUST NOT ADHERE TO WELL...so, i have to strip the whole compartment to bare metal...do you have this weird black primer on your car like me??? if you do, you will have to strip to bare metal, re-prime and paint it...this is a big job..with all the nooks and crannys..- i'm on 2 weeks and only half done...let me know what you have...bye..ed mlynek in georgia
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Old 11-28-2016, 12:04 PM
 
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Hi Ed, I took a closer look at mine. I carefully cleared away material until I got down to metal. Mine is similar to yours. I have a brownish / black layer at the metal and then what looks almost like a "skim" coat then white finish (smooth / shiny) paint. I am going to the local "old Birds" brunch tomorrow and I will be talking with guys who have done a few restorations.
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  #18 (permalink)   IP: 73.119.90.72
Old 11-28-2016, 08:38 PM
 
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this is a response I got on another Thunderbird web site:
'Body Shop' metal is filthy, with draw compound oil, hand prints, weld flash, etc.

"Ford cars are treated with phosphate to etch and clean steel frames and body assemblies. Phosphate also leaves a black-ish film which protects it for a short time (especially here in the rust belt). Because of the phosphate process Ford never paints on bare steel because paint is porous. That's why some aftermarket paint jobs rust sooner. Ford then used a red (almost rust color) primer before the top coat. Our ovens are set to 250F. That is far too hot for any plastic, vinyl or soft materials but it does a great job of curing paint in a hurry."
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Old 11-29-2016, 07:25 AM
 
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OK...WHATEVER THE FLAT BLACK STUFF, IT'S GONE ON MY CAR..SANDING DISCS AND AIRCRAFT QUALITY PAINT STRIPPER HAVE REMOVED IT ALL....I WILL NOW..(AS YOU SHOULD TOO) USE A GOOD QUALITY 'ECHING PRIMER' ON YOUR BARE STEEL....I DID THIS WITH MY FIRST BIRD IN 2002...IT'S A SICK LIGHT GREEN COLOR....THEN AFTER I YEAR, SWAPPED CARS WITH ANOTHER DUDE, HE STILL HAS THE 'GREEN CAR', (AS WE CALL IT) AND 14 YEARS LATER IT'S STILL 'GREEN' AND SHOWS NO SIGN OF RUST..--SO IT WORKS....THAT'S ALL I HAVE...HOPE OTHERS ON THE FORUM READ OUR TEXTS AND TAKE HEED TO WHAT WE HAVE SAID..IT WILL DO THEM A LOT OF GOOD....BYE....GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR CAR AND (PLEASE?) SEND ME E-MAIL PHOTOS OF THE COMPLETE JOB...I DON'T CARE IF IT TAKES YEARS..(MY FIRST BIRD WAS 'IN BOXES' FOR 32 YEARS BEFORE FINISHED).....edmund.mlynek@sbcglobal.net
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Old 06-11-2017, 08:54 PM
 
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I have been working on the car a little whenever I get a chance. Along with a few other projects. Any way I have been chemically stripping the paint to get to bare metal then shooting a primer to help stop from forming any rust until I get further along. The car is half done. I also found a couple spots rusted through on the frame so I have purchased a nice '56 frame to replace my rusted '55 frame. I don't have the pictures of the frames at this time I will post them later.
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File Type: jpg front.jpg (80.4 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg left.jpg (85.8 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg rear.jpg (94.2 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg right.jpg (98.2 KB, 20 views)
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  #21 (permalink)   IP: 108.35.7.12
Old 06-11-2017, 11:19 PM
 
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I'm no paint expert, but most primers are not waterproof and rust can start behind it. What I think you need is an epoxy primer, which blocks moisture

Never heard the part about paint not being waterproof, seems to be on most cars.

Anybody who paints metal without using a primer shouldn't be painting. The only exception I know of is Rustoleum and even they recommend their rusty metal primer.

Last edited by paul2748; 06-11-2017 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 06-11-2017, 11:49 PM
 
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I was going to have the car blasted but decided to chemically strip it myself. Yes, You are correct regarding primer allowing moisture through. and I agree that the paint does seal the surface from getting moisture through to the primer. I took an auto body course years ago and the instructor was emphatic. The primer is just a bonding agent between the steel and the paint. Primer is very porous and will cause rust underneath. I know this and I also know that now there are epoxy based primers that are better than anything that was available years ago. I am just putting on a temporary coating of primer which I will be removing in the future when I am ready to start the actual final body work and painting process. Yes I have been using rust-O-leum primer for rusty metal. I don't want to put any conversion coating on just yet. I have lots of sheet metal (welding and shaping) work to do and another frame that I want to get set up (302, automatic, disc brakes and suspension work) and ready for this body. As I said this primer is just temporary and will be completely redone later. I have an auto body supply house nearby and will be getting everything from them (compatible primers, fillers and paints) to take me from bare metal to final finish.
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  #23 (permalink)   IP: 73.119.90.72
Old 11-22-2017, 12:46 PM
 
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Hi, I'm still working on the car (although not as fast as I had hoped). I have been stripping the paint to bare metal and then priming to get ready to lift the body off. There's still a couple areas of rusted metal that I want to fix before the body off. I don't like the idiot lights in dash and I don't want to have gauges hanging down under the dash. I also decided I don't really need a tachometer (I don't intend to do any high revs) or the clock (the radio will have a clock). I am attaching pics of my concept. As I get it going I'll post pics showing how I do it.
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File Type: jpg original.JPG (103.0 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg concept.JPG (103.8 KB, 9 views)
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