Power window switch

[SCUMDOG]

Had a little bit of a "Chernobyll" (meltdown) on my drivers window switch, will get a new one.

I noticed three wires from the plug - but the black one going into the fabric sleeve didn't come out at the switch!

A quick look showed it had been cut off on both the drivers and passengers switches, that explains the extra black wire running into the console from somewhere and the crimp-on terminals on it that bolt to the two brass strips on the switch blocks.

But it doesn't explain what the extra brown switch-block looking thing at the front of the switch plate is, it is at right-angles to the other 'blocks' and it looks just like the switch 'blocks' in the switch plate but has no wires going to it and appears to have no purpose.

There's no sign of this 'block' on top of the switch plate.

Any ideas what this thing is guys?

Oh, Joe, my e-mails to you are STILL bouncing back to me!! Dang!

[Joe Van Datta]

Tom, that is just there to hold the other switches in place, has no electrical connections.

[Joe Van Datta]

On further inspection, that blank block fills in where another switch would go on some models and holds the clip that ties down the panel in place.

[SCUMDOG]

Originally Posted by Joe Van Datta

On further inspection, that blank block fills in where another switch would go on some models and holds the clip that ties down the panel in place.

Thanks Joe, I got your e-mails on the topic but haven't replied as I got two more of my e-mails 'bounced back' - the message with the last one said it "was returned because the destination computer was not reached within the allowed queue period" and added:

"Most likely there is a network problem that prevented delivery, but
it is also possible that the computer is turned off, or does not
have a mail system running right now.

Your message was not delivered within 4 days and 0 hours.
Host pacbell.net is not responding."

Now, back to T-bird stuff, where are the multi-pin junctions located in the loom from the window switch gear to the fuse box?

I checked the factory wiring and there is no power in the three-pin junction near the drivers and passengers window switch, the 'extra' black wire that goes to the switches is 'hot' when the ignition is on, I would like to dispense with any non-factory 'extra' wiring if possible.

The factory loom shows no sign of heat or a short circuit so I'm at a loss as to why this extra wire was put in - it points to a problem in the factory wiring way before the switches. (after all, if the problem WAS near the switches why would anybody cut the hot wire at the switch and then run a seperate wire all the way back to (I think - got to check!) the fuse-box?

The 'xtra' wire heads off through the console in the direction of the factory wiring, last seen headinf towards the area behind the passengers side of the lower dash.

[Harley Eaton]

Something you may not know - power to the window switches should come from the "window safety relay" located under the hood on the firewall. It could be that this relay has failed and the "fix" was to rum another power wire from another location. Can you check the window safety relay under the hood to see if it is working properly? I assume there is no power at the black wire in the harness going to the switches.

[SCUMDOG]

Originally Posted by Harley Eaton

Something you may not know - power to the window switches should come from the "window safety relay" located under the hood on the firewall. It could be that this relay has failed and the "fix" was to rum another power wire from another location. Can you check the window safety relay under the hood to see if it is working properly? I assume there is no power at the black wire in the harness going to the switches.

Harely, checked for power at the plugs on the harness for the driver/passenger window switches and it appears as you say - no power.

Took relay off firewall to check it - and promptly broke of the terminal nearest the centre of the car!!!!
It's the one marked 'F' underneath on the plastic base, the brass section there look like it had been weakend.

Will dismantle relay and see if it is repairable, if not will order new one - and a new switch to replace the 'Chernobyll'd' one.

[SCUMDOG]

Well guys, discovered the relay on the firewall is non-functional, used a battery lead to put power into it and nadda from the slenoid, there was a lot of rusty flakes fell out when I took the internals out of the cover, the 'core' is siezed so it seems.

Used a small jumper lead to by-pass the relay at the firewall wiring end, checked the window switch end of things and tad-dah! now had 'lectricity there! :hurray

So it seems a new solenoid is now in order and I can remove the wiring that the Mexican used to by-pass the solenoid and repair the wiring in the loom so the 3-pin plugs by the switches work as per the factory intentions. :thumbsup