Head light control
 

57 bird dash:

How do you get the headlight switch out?

I'm pulling my hair out. It's the last thing to go!

Help!

Brian

Brian,

Detailed instructions on the procedure are in the Shop Manual on page 8-8. Fig. 20 on page 8-9 shows a large illustation of the switch.

I'll try to expand on their instructions and hope I don't make it impossible to understand. On the outboard side of the switch, there is a spring loaded button between the two spade lug contacts. Push this button inward while you pull and twist the headlight knob outward. When the knob is removed, the chrome plated threaded sleeve can be turnec with a blade screwdriver and removed. At this point, everything is apart, and you can remove the switch. Assembly is much easier. You don't even have to think about the release button.

Easy Huh? Tom

Found it! I read those instructions, and studied the illustration, and didn't see the spring button!

Would've been nice if they had called it out on the illustration, but then it wouldn't be so fun rebuilding this Bird.

Next question: Checking instruments:

How do I check to see if clock still runs?
Are they rebuildable? To inspect the guts, I will at least need to replace the "tape" that runs around the outside of the clock housing. I don't want to take this off until I know better, but I don't see this tape in any of the suppliers books.

The adjusting knob shaft is rusted, and I would like to at least clean that up, but it will be tough without further disassembly.

(This car hasn't run in 25 years!).

Brian,

It isn't worth your time to mess around with the clock. You can get it refurbished with a one year warranty for $40. If that part has to be replaced, I think that may be an additional $15. The place I recommend is: http://www.clockwks.com

You hear a lot of criticism about old car clocks. The majority of problems occur when the cars battery weakens and it burns out the points in the electric winding mechanism. I have an old fashioned clock in one of my '57s that has been going great since '91.

Tom

P.S. If you want to check your clock to see if it works, ground the case and apply power to the FUSED power wire.

I agree with you - I'll send it out!

Too many other things too do, like take apart the instrument cluster rings and refinish them!

Thanks!

Clock Rebuild Price Update
 

For those of you still looking at this thread in 2017, the "Clockwks" supplier is still in business. I am considering them for my clock rebuild. The T-Bird link is Tbird or "http://www.clockwks.com/Tbirdx.html". However the prices have changed (what hasn't?). The current mechanical restoration is $79.95, with other charges for parts and services as necessary, including a quartz replacement, if necessary.

Good luck with your clock...

Castor120

when the clock has no power to it, it will wind all the way down until the points are closed. If the battery is weak the points can burn (similar to how points burn in the distributor). I would first try a point file and clean the point faces. While you are burnishing the points they will probably open a little and the clock may start. When you apply power the clock should wind down until the points almost close then they snap open and continue running the clock. I would try that before sending the clock out and paying someone to clean it and do the same thing to make it run. Otherwise I would just go for the quartz conversion.

I would recommend a quartz conversion. My clock was done 10 years ago and it runs like a charm. Williamson's did the conversion.

They did another conversion on my 54 clock. 15 years ago. That one also runs like a charm.