Engine and Transmission Removal

[TOM WRIGHT]

I nead to replace the seal, both front and rear in my 57's auto transmission. I have been told, and I believe it to be true,that you must remove the engine when removing the transmission. After looking this job over, I think this can be removed in 1-2 hrs. MAX. It just doesn't look that tough of a job. I have all the tools including a lift to work under the car, engine hoist, transmission jack,etc. I plan on removing both engine and transmission as an assembly.
My question is, am I right in my thinking that this is going to be a fairly simple and straight forward job?
Any comments will be well received
Thank you
Tom Wright

[jfhbird]

I have just removed my engine and transmission also. There are articles that say you can remove the transmission as a separate unit but this would require special tools and a lot of patience. You wold be required to dissassemble the transmission before removing it. I reccommend removing the tranny and engine as a single unit. There is a nice article in the CTCI restoration manual about this. You must remove the hood, radiator, Generator, accelerator linkage, transmission cooling lines,power brake vacuum line, power steering hoses, gas line, and heater blower motor. Unbolt the front motor mount and rear transmission mount. Disconnect apropriate wires. You may then use an engine hoist and pull the motor and transmission out as one piece. You will have to angle this unit like you were taking off a shoe. It will probably take more than an hour and a half but it is not such a bad job.

[57tbirdguy]

I would plan on closer to 3-4 hours to get everything drained and disconnected but it is a straight forward job, while you have the motor out you may want to detail up the engine bay. A little degreaser and some paint goes a long way!

[TOM WRIGHT]

I will be replacing the rear main seal in the engine as long the engine is out. This will be a good time to clean things up in the entire area.

[1212jamit]

I too pulled my engine and trans about 8 months ago. The best investment is what CHECKERS AUTO PARTS call a "load leveler" it hooks to the engine hoist and the engine. It allows the operator to adjust the angle of the engine and trans as they are removed and installed. Cost is around $30.00. Saves alot of scatches on the car and fowl language.

[TOM WRIGHT]

I already have a load leveler. I will post again when I pull the engine and tranny.

[edmlynek]

REAR MAIN SEAL.....watch out...this seal is an old kind of 'rope type' seal in a alum. 'houseing'..and if the dude that is doing it doesn't know 'jack' about how to do this correctly, it will leak , leak, and leak until you find a 'old-timer' who did this 'back in the day' and does it right...(trust me, i know).......heard rumors of certain mopar or ford 460 neoprene seals fitting this, but i am not aware of the year needed...good luck....ed mlynek

[paul2748]

There are two newer type of seals than the old rope seal, both which are better. The neophrene one and a new material rope seal made by Best Gasket. The neophrene seals work good, I haven't heard any comments about the Best Gasket rope type.