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Early Birds [1955-1957] Have a Super Sharp 1955 to 1957 Thunderbird or just want to learn about them? Show yours off and talk about them here. |
This is a discussion on 1957 "E" Bird within the Early Birds [1955-1957] forums, part of the Thunderbird Model Years category; I'm restoring a '57 E-Bird and would like to exchange info/tips/stories with anyone else out these who may have knowledge ...
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1957 "E" Bird
I'm restoring a '57 E-Bird and would like to exchange info/tips/stories with anyone else out these who may have knowledge about this very involved and expensive process.
ashmatk@aol.com :cool: |
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There are a few people on this forum who have either done it a time or two and others who are currently involved with a project. Before we can help you, there are a couple things you'll need to tell us: (1) What is your intended use for the finished product? Concours, Local show, or Driver. (2) Is authenticity a factor.
After we know your objectives, we can probably share our experiences with you and answer your questions. (if they're easy) Tom |
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Tom, I would like to be able to enter the car in local shows and possibly go on some car runs and enter out of town shows. I have been able to get many hard to find parts for the dual quad car, but I draw the line at things like suspension parts, etc. FYI, my car is a '57 E bird with 3 spd OD, gunmetal. I do intend to repaint silver, so there goes a few points. 1 major item I'm lacking is a convertible top. My focus right now is suspension and mechanical. I'm doing a ground-up, not a frame off resto. Thanks for your reply, it helps to share info.
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Ok, let's try a restoration question. I have a trim and sealer manual, as well as the usual reproduction manuals, but I haven't found any guidance on what colors I'm supposed to use on the undercarriage, suspension parts etc. When I look at my differential, it looks like it's red. Is that original? Do you paint the gas tank? Any source for these answers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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For all of those answers and more, join CTCI (www.ctci.org), and get their manuals and concourse rules(especially the concourse rules). These explain all of the colors in general, and some specific items that vary by year, like a particular bolt on a fender may be natural or painted.
I joined a year after I started my rebuild, and I should have joined a year before. The differential stays red, by the way. [ 05-08-2002: Message edited by: Brian ] |
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Brian gave you the best advice anyone could offer. Join CTCI. In addition to the Concours rule book, they offer a restoration details book. Not cheap, but it's loaded with high quality color photos.
I'd like to expand a little on your two specific questions: (1) Differential third member proper color is Red Oxide. It looks like structural steel primer. (2) Gas tank; buy a new one and clear coat it. Don't use powder coating. The reason I recommend a new tank is because after getting screwed over by Ford for 25 years with their overpriced incorrect tanks that didn't even have a drain plug, The repro tanks are a very high quality, authentic item. When you consider the tank price is about the same price as a single carb rebuild, why risk a contaminated fuel supply? (3) When you determine the proper finish for a part is Cad/Zinc plated, don't be afraid of using Argent paint. Cadmium and Zinc plating sources are getting progressively more difficult to find. I challenge anyone to look at a jack staff and identify it as cad or argent. You will also find "natural" is the proper finish for some items. Clear coating never seems to last. Look for products like "Blast Cast" etc. Careful selection of modern coating products will last much longer and cannot be determined as improper if you ever get into really serious point judging situation. Keep the specific questions coming. I don't want to sit here and blab about something no one cares about. Tom |
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Tom -
I've changed my name to "no one". Keep blabbing. I could listen all day. It's the little things that count. I've been thinking about the gas tank. Mine is good, but it did have the cap off for a few years. I was just going to dip it, and do the usual coating method inside. But it looks like repros can be had for $260. Have to go now and work out the calculations. Thanks. Brian |
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Repro gas tanks for the '57 can be had for $150.00. Check ebay. Just don't bid against me (aka "Kailey Bugs")please. Regarding the CTCI suggestion, thanks. I'm submitting my application today. On to more questions: I'm rebuilding the suspension, and have an opportunity to install a posi unit in the original 9" 28 spline rear differential for a few extra bucks. Any comments on this? Seems like a good idea to me. Should provide better traction and not hurt my concours points? I won't be doing any burn-outs for the judges. Right? Wrong?
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I can't comment on the posi-traction rear end because I've never thought about it nor have I known anyone who has done it. Except for pinion seal replacement, those rear ends seem to last forever. If you stay in the 3.56:1 - 4.11:1 ratio range, performance should be O.K.. There is a new member on the board named 5bird7. He has hung around with a lot of performance oriented Bird owners in the Pacific Northwest and Texas. Hopefully he will chime in here and share some of his experiences.
That $150 gas tank sounds like a super buy. After you get yours, post a link here letting us know where you got it. Since you are still in the suspension area; you might want to give some thought to firming up the rear suspension. There are sway bar kits available that may be used in conjunction with air shocks, springs with a sixth leaf etc. If I was to ever alter a Bird from stock, that is the first area I'd address. The rear suspension loading on these cars is extremely variable and it's all carried by the rear springs. There really isn't a happy compromise spring rate. It's just too anemic and mushy 90% of the time. At least that's true for the way mine are used. Tom [ 05-10-2002: Message edited by: nomadbird ] |
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ashmatk,
I'm not really in under 5bird7 but 0bird2. But I'm the person believed to be 5bird7. Sometimes I'm tricky that way. Anyway, If the posi rearend that you have access to is in the 3.56-4.11 ratio range like nomadbird mentioned, I'd put it in in a heartbeat. Be sure the right gear oils are used for the type of unit. I beleive Ford had at least two different types of limited slip differentials and they use different additive in the lube oils. It is not something a judge would see in normal Concours judging, so there would be no point deduction in a show. With having a stick/OD the posi would help in normal driving on wet roads. They can be suprising on ice at road speeds, but I'd expect the Bird to be home in a garage in that kind of road conditions. A big plus would be that you could come to Texas for the Birdsapaloosa 1/8th mile drags every year. I have 2.75:1 gears in my '57 (automatic) and would even use a posi with them if I had one available. On the suggested suspension mods, if you can do them, they will make a big improvement on ride and handling. Rear air shocks are one of the best improvements to be made if you plan to travel much. I installed air shocks back in '78 or so and wouldn't be without them. They are the same as '74-'78 Courier pickups. Both Monroe and Gabrial carry them. The sway bars really improve stability and the shocks can be adjusted to whatever load you're carrying. Have fun, 0bird2 NRH, TX '57 Willow Green, Green softtop. |
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0bird2,
Does the screen name change indicate the long wait for the new one is over? As long as you never lose that '57 plate, we'll be able to identify you. I've always thought that had to be the most appropriate plate I had ever seen. Tom |
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no, it just means that there are two of us here. :D I'm 5bird7 and he's 0bird2 and we're still waiting for the 02. :cool:
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Thanks Stephen,
I'm not familiar with Auto City Classics. Could you give us an address, URL, phone etc? It just goes to show how thoroughly FOMOCO was hosing us with their $500 tanks in the mid'90s. Tom |
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